Madam Martha Koyu: The Bohemian Haven of Antigoni
Tucked along the sheltered southwestern shoreline of Burgazada, Madam Martha Koyu (Martha Bay) is more than a scenic swimming cove; it is the spiritual home of the island’s bohemian soul. Framed by sloping pine groves, wild mastic bushes, and smooth shale ledges, this crescent-shaped pebble haven carries the memory of an extraordinary woman who chose freedom, nature, and generosity over conventional metropolitan society.
- The Legend of Madam Martha: Named after Martha Kovan (1920–1986), an Egyptian-Armenian ballerina who lived in an open stone cottage on this shore, swam in all four seasons, and distributed fresh bread and laughter to island fishermen.
- Crystal-Clear Water & Pebble Shore: The cove offers remarkably transparent, calm waters shielded from the northern *Poyraz* winds. The seabed is rocky; rubber swimming shoes are essential.
- Strict Environmental Protections: Overnight camping, pitching tents, and lighting open campfires are strictly banned by Istanbul municipal authorities to protect fragile coastal maritime pines.
- Access from Ferry Pier: A peaceful 20- to 25-minute walk (1.8 km) south via Barbaros Hayrettin Caddesi and Martha Koyu Sokak, or accessible via the municipal electric Adabüs shuttle.
1. Who Was Madam Martha? The Woman Behind the Cove
Martha Kovan was born in Cairo in 1920 to a cultured Armenian family. After classical ballet training in Egypt and Europe, she married Berç Kovan, an Istanbul businessman whose family owned land on Burgazada. Captivated by the wild beauty of the island's untamed southwestern shore, Martha rejected the rigid social obligations of wealthy Pera high society. Instead, she chose to make her permanent home in a modest, unplastered stone cottage right at the water’s edge in what was then an unnamed, deserted bay.
To the conservative mainland Istanbul of the mid-20th century, Martha was an enigma. She swam at dawn every single day of the year—even when winter sea temperatures plummeted into single digits and snow dusted the coastal pines. She walked barefoot across the pebbles, adorned her hair with seasonal wildflowers and seashells, and greeted returning fishermen with warm loaves of bread, hot tea, and joyous laughter. When conservative whispers spread among certain island summer residents, Martha paid them no heed, remaining completely true to her free-spirited love for the sea.
In September 1986, weary of malicious gossip and feeling her health declining, Madam Martha took her own life, leaving behind a simple farewell letter asking that her beloved bay be kept pure, free, and welcoming to all lovers of nature. Today, islanders and visitors alike speak her name with profound reverence, and the cove remains an enduring symbol of spiritual freedom and ecological harmony.
2. Swimming, Snorkeling & Marine Ecology
Geographically, Madam Martha Koyu is oriented southwest, meaning it is naturally sheltered from the brisk northerly winds (*Poyraz*) that frequently generate choppy surf on Istanbul’s European shores. Consequently, the water here is often as still as glass, with transparency extending three to four meters deep.
The seabed begins with fine grey and brown pebbles before transitioning into submerged limestone shelves colonized by sea anemones, green algae (*Ulva lactuca*), and occasional black sea urchins (*Paracentrotus lividus*). To avoid painful spines, wear sturdy rubber reef shoes or water sandals (*deniz ayakkabısı*). Bring a snorkeling mask: the shallow rock ledges teem with wrasse, blennies, and small octopuses hiding among the fissures.
3. Environmental Conservation & Island Rules
In recent years, Madam Martha Koyu faced grave ecological threats from unregulated overnight camping, unauthorized bonfires, and litter. In response, the Burgazada Preservation Society and the Istanbul Metropolitan Municipality (İBB) enacted stringent environmental regulations:
- Strict Ban on Tents & Camping: Setting up tents, bivouacs, or overnight sleeping bags is illegal and subject to immediate municipal fines. Local forest police and gendarmerie patrol the perimeter regularly.
- Zero Fire Policy: Lighting any campfire, barbecue, or charcoal stove is strictly prohibited under Turkish forestry laws to prevent catastrophic island wildfires.
- Leave No Trace: There are no municipal waste collectors on the rocks. Every visitor must carry out all food wrappers, bottles, and personal refuse back to town recycling bins.
- No Commercial Beach Clubs: The cove remains an entirely public, undeveloped natural monument. There are no loud electronic sound systems, water sports rentals, or paid admission turnstiles.
4. How to Reach Madam Martha Bay
From the Burgazada ferry landing, walk south along the waterfront promenade on Barbaros Hayrettin Caddesi for approximately 1.2 kilometers. Turn right onto Martha Koyu Sokak, which climbs a gentle residential hill before descending through a canopy of maritime pines toward the sea. A dirt foot trail leads directly down onto the pebble beach. Alternatively, flag down an electric municipal Adabüs minibus and request the Martha Koyu stop.
Pair Your Cove Visit with a Literary Audio Tour
Listen to the fascinating life story of Madam Martha and Sait Faik as you walk the coastal trails of Burgazada. Book your official fast ferry ticket with an offline digital smartphone audio guide.
Book Ferry Ticket & Audio Guide (€14.50) →